Tuesday, September 7, 2021

Cheese Balls & BBQ


I recently finished reading Carla Hall’s Soul Food cookbook. I got the book after listening to an interview with Dan Pashman on The Sporkful: Carla Hall Isn’t Going Back To The Frozen Food Section « (sporkful.com). Carla Hall has made a name for herself on Top Chef and The Chew.

Another recent cookbook acquisition is Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ. Again, a podcast interview with Ed Levine on Special Sauce inspired me to purchase the book: Rodney Scott & Lolis Eric Elie on BBQ And Fathers & Sons, Plus Kenji’s Pork Shoulder – Special Sauce (thespecialsaucepodcast.com). Part cookbook, part memoir, he tells his story of becoming a pitmaster and the sacrifices made along the road to a bbq fame. He has full instructions on how to barbeque a whole hog. This is not on my list of things to do but who knows.

I have been interested in Southern food and BBQ for years. I have a few Southern Cookbooks. Some are by white writers, others by black writers. And one by both, The Gift of Southern Cooking by Enda Lewis and Scott Peacock. Black authors often refer to their recipes as Soul Food while white authors call it Southern Food. I am not about to side with one or the other. I choose the recipes I like and enjoy the writing of all the authors.

I have never cooked real barbeque. I don’t have a smoker and really haven’t wanted to try. I grill ribs and do pulled pork in the oven.

So, for my partner’s August birthday celebration, among other things I made:

Pimento Cheese & Crackers

Cornbread muffins

Ribs with Talmadge Farm BBQ sauce

Potato Salad & Watermelon, Feta and Mint Salad

Blueberry-Nectarine Pie & Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

Not a bad line up.


When I was a kid, close friends of my family had a huge Christmas Eve party. There was always a cheese ball on the buffet. It was rolled in nuts, usually walnuts, and was not very memorable. I have recently been intrigued by pimento cheese due to reading these two new cookbooks. Carla’s recipe is great. It has a little heat and uses roasted red bell pepper versus jarred (somewhat mushy) pimento peppers. It was a hit.

I often get compliments about my cornbread. It is straight out of the Settlement Cookbook, Third Edition. And yes, it has sugar in it. My secret is I use fresh ground corn meal. Store bought corn meal never seems to have any flavor. It reminds me of yellow dust. I take frozen sweet corn and dry it in my dehydrator. Then I run it through the grain mill attachment I have for my KitchenAid mixer. This makes my muffins taste like fresh corn.



One thing I have learned about ribs is to peel off the membrane on the backside of the rack. The membrane remains chewy regardless of cooking time. I rub on the rub and let them sit overnight in the fridge. Then braise them in the oven for an hour or so over a layer of sliced onion with bay leaves and thyme. I then throw them on the grill and cook for 30 minutes, turning often and basting with BBQ sauce.

 



I got the sauce recipe from The Heritage of Southern Cooking published in 1986 by Camille Glenn. However, the recipe originates from Betty Talmadge. It is cooked with a whole sliced lemon, giving it a tangy flavor that I find delicious.


Watermelon tasted wonderful with the mint and feta cheese. The potato salad is fairly traditional with tart flavor from vinegar.



It was a great birthday celebration!


Monday, July 12, 2021

Marmalade is basically orange jam

Jam, in my opinion, is fruit candy. The fruit is boiled with pectin until it thickens. Then it is boiled in a hot water bath to seal in the canning jar.

Pectin is a natural carbohydrate found in fruits and vegetables. Apples and citrus are the main fruits used to produce commercial pectin. After juicing the fruit, the leftovers are dried then sent to pectin processing plants. Then we use it to make jam. When pectin is mixed with sugar and acid it will form a gel. The right conditions must be attained.

My Ball Blue Book has all the recipes for preserving food. I use it for proportions of fruit, sugar, acid (either lemon juice or powdered citric acid) and pectin. One thing I always had trouble with was getting jam to setup. I used many jars as syrup. Through more reading about making jam, I discovered that pectin the best gelling point at 220°F. However, it needs the presence of sugar and acid as well.

I did go down a pectin rabbit hole and it got fairly sciency. So now what about that marmalade…

Marmalade is a fruit preserve most commonly made from citrus fruits. Some of the first references to marmalade like fruit paste was from a collection of Roman recipes compiled in the 1st century AD. It was made with quince and honey. It wasn’t until the late 1600s that oranges were directly referred to in an English cookbook. It was referred to as Marmelet of Oranges. The early 1700’s brought the first printed Orange Marmalade recipe.

Any citrus can be used. Of course, the more tart the fruit the more tart the marmalade. Orange marmalade does not require adding any pectin. The pith is full of it. The recipe I use calls for thinly slicing the oranges and a couple of lemons. I use a mandolin for slicing, then quarter the slices with a knife. Toss the cut-up citrus into a large pot and cover with water. Then heat the mix to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes or so. Cool to room temp and refrigerate for 12-24 hours. This step softens the peel and renders more pectin into the water. The next day the mixture will be somewhat opaque.



Next up is reheating the oranges, adding sugar and boiling until it is nearly 220°F. I start testing the marmalade when it gets up to about 215°F. I keep a small bowl inside a bigger bowl of ice. Drop a small spoonful of the mix into the small bowl wait until it cools and see how thick it is. When it is thick like jam it is time to can. I make 1-pint jars and process for 10 minutes in boiling water bath.





Orange Marmalade

2    lemons

12  oranges

6    cups  sugar

Wash the lemons and oranges. Thinly slice the lemons and remove any seeds. Cut the slices into quarters and place them in a large, wide pot.

Thinly slice the oranges and remove any seeds. Cut the slices into quarters. Use less or more oranges as needed to measure out to 8 cups. Add the oranges to the pot. Add enough water to just cover the citrus.

Bring the pot to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight, 12-24 hours.

Return the pot to the stove and heat to a boil over medium heat. Place a candy thermometer in the pot to monitor the temperature. Add the sugar a few cups at a time stirring between additions. Stir until all the sugar has dissolved.

Keep the marmalade at a steady boil. Start testing for thickness after the mixture has reached 215°F. Once the desired thickness is reached turn off the heat.

For canning, pour the marmalade into pint jars, wipe the rim, place the lid and ring on the jar. Hand tighten and process in a boiling hot water bath for 10 minutes. Remove from the canner and cool on a cooling rack to room temperature. Check that the lids are sealed and remove the rings. Store in a cool dark cabinet.

Yield: 5 pints