Ligurian Fugitive Food

Focaccia has a history that goes back to the 12^th century. Apparently, the Ligurian crusaders took the bread with them to eat on the road. But another legend says that the fugitives from pirate invasions in the region made the bread while in hiding. What is known today is the bread made in Liguria is world famous and comes in a myriad of variations.

 

Quite a long time ago there was a recipe for Ligurian Focaccia in the local newspaper’s food section. I clipped it out and made it. Wow, it was full of fresh herbs, olive oil and had a crunchy bottom with a pillowy interior. Turns out it is pretty easy to make. For those intimidated by making bread this is the recipe to impress your friends and family with.

Fresh herbs really make a difference. I find it best to leave something out rather than use dry. Big chunky salt works best. Even kosher salt disappears while baking.

 

                     

Ligurian Focaccia

1 1/4 cups warm water

1/2     teaspoon sugar

2         teaspoons yeast

1         tablespoon olive oil

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1        cup whole wheat flour

2        teaspoons minced oregano

1        teaspoon minced basil

1        teaspoon minced fennel fronds

1        teaspoon minced mint

1        teaspoon minced sage

1/2    teaspoon minced rosemary

1        teaspoon kosher salt

          olive oil

          coarse salt

In the bowl of a stand mixer add warm water, sugar and yeast. Let sit for 5-10 minutes to proof. Meanwhile, combine both flours in a separate bowl.

Stir the olive oil into the mixer bowl, then add 2 cups flour, herbs and salt. With a dough hook mix until smooth. Add 1 cup flour. Mix for 8-10 minutes. Cover and let rise until doubled.

Lightly oil a quarter sheet pan (9 1/2x13-inch) with olive oil. Dump the dough onto the pan and pat the dough to fill the pan. Let raise for 30 minutes. Make dimples in the dough with wooden spoon handle or fingers. Let rise until doubled.

Preheat oven to 450°F. Generously drizzle oil on the dough and gently brush it around. Sprinkle with coarse salt, add toppings if desired (press them gently into the dough). Put pan in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. For a crispy crust, spray the oven with water three times during the first 10 minutes of baking.

Turn out onto a cooling rack. Let cool to room temperature. Cut into squares with a pizza wheel and serve. For a half sheet pan double the recipe.

 

Optional Toppings:

    1/2 cup pitted olives

    1/4 fennel bulb thinly sliced

    1/4 red onion thinly sliced

    1/2 cup cherry tomatoes

Focaccia dries out quickly. If there are leftovers wrap up and freeze.

 

 

Cheese Balls & BBQ

I recently finished reading Carla Hall’s Soul Food cookbook. I got the book after listening to an interview with Dan Pashman on The Sporkful: Carla Hall Isn’t Going Back To The Frozen Food Section « (sporkful.com). Carla Hall has made a name for herself on Top Chef and The Chew.

Another recent cookbook acquisition is Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ. Again, a podcast interview with Ed Levine on Special Sauce inspired me to purchase the book: Rodney Scott & Lolis Eric Elie on BBQ And Fathers & Sons, Plus Kenji’s Pork Shoulder – Special Sauce (thespecialsaucepodcast.com). Part cookbook, part memoir, he tells his story of becoming a pitmaster and the sacrifices made along the road to a bbq fame. He has full instructions on how to barbeque a whole hog. This is not on my list of things to do but who knows.

I have been interested in Southern food and BBQ for years. I have a few Southern Cookbooks. Some are by white writers, others by black writers. And one by both, The Gift of Southern Cooking by Enda Lewis and Scott Peacock. Black authors often refer to their recipes as Soul Food while white authors call it Southern Food. I am not about to side with one or the other. I choose the recipes I like and enjoy the writing of all the authors.

I have never cooked real barbeque. I don’t have a smoker and really haven’t wanted to try. I grill ribs and do pulled pork in the oven.

So, for my partner’s August birthday celebration, among other things I made:

Pimento Cheese & Crackers

Cornbread muffins

Ribs with Talmadge Farm BBQ sauce

Potato Salad & Watermelon, Feta and Mint Salad

Blueberry-Nectarine Pie & Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

Not a bad line up.

When I was a kid, close friends of my family had a huge Christmas Eve party. There was always a cheese ball on the buffet. It was rolled in nuts, usually walnuts, and was not very memorable. I have recently been intrigued by pimento cheese due to reading these two new cookbooks. Carla’s recipe is great. It has a little heat and uses roasted red bell pepper versus jarred (somewhat mushy) pimento peppers. It was a hit.

I often get compliments about my cornbread. It is straight out of the Settlement Cookbook, Third Edition. And yes, it has sugar in it. My secret is I use fresh ground corn meal. Store bought corn meal never seems to have any flavor. It reminds me of yellow dust. I take frozen sweet corn and dry it in my dehydrator. Then I run it through the grain mill attachment I have for my KitchenAid mixer. This makes my muffins taste like fresh corn.

One thing I have learned about ribs is to peel off the membrane on the backside of the rack. The membrane remains chewy regardless of cooking time. I rub on the rub and let them sit overnight in the fridge. Then braise them in the oven for an hour or so over a layer of sliced onion with bay leaves and thyme. I then throw them on the grill and cook for 30 minutes, turning often and basting with BBQ sauce.

 

I got the sauce recipe from The Heritage of Southern Cooking published in 1986 by Camille Glenn. However, the recipe originates from Betty Talmadge. It is cooked with a whole sliced lemon, giving it a tangy flavor that I find delicious.

Watermelon tasted wonderful with the mint and feta cheese. The potato salad is fairly traditional with tart flavor from vinegar.

It was a great birthday celebration!