Friday, March 25, 2022

Paella Party

According to Wikipedia: Paella is a Spanish rice dish originally from Valencia. The dish takes its name from the wide, shallow traditional pan used to cook the dish on an open fire. Paella means "frying pan" in Valencian. As a dish, it may have ancient roots, but in its modern form it is traced back to the mid-19th century, in the rural area around the Albufera lagoon adjacent to the city of Valencia, on the east coast of Spain.


There are literally hundreds of recipes for paella. I have two cookbooks and several tapas cookbooks with recipes. 




I decided on a small dinner party to make paella. Not quite as good as being in Valencia but one must take what one can get.


There’s the pan. It’s a wide, shallow and preferably made of carbon steel. Some are small some are huge!






Making paella is a process. I went with fairly traditional: chicken, chorizo, shrimp, clams and mussels. I have two cookbooks just about paella and there are literally over a hundred different variations.

A sofrito is the mix that gives the paella is vibrant color (as well as saffron). It has onion, tomato, garlic, paprika and bell pepper that is sautéed in olive oil until thick. This mixture is usually made ahead on the stovetop.



I use a propane gas burner to cook outside. A gas grill or charcoal grill can be used as well. Look up paella burner and you’ll know what I mean. Or simply use the stovetop. Then fire it all up, heat the paella pan and brown the chicken and chorizo. Set aside, throw the sofrito in with more olive oil, toss in the rice. Stir to coat with oil and sofrito. Pour in the stock. Tuck in the chicken and chorizo. Have it at a good simmer for about 15 minutes. Add shellfish and cook another 10 or so minutes. And listo (Spanish for voilà) paella!

























There’s a tricky part though.… the socarrat. This is the crispy browned bottom of the paella. It’s tricky because the paella must never be stirred once the stock it added therefore it’s easy to burn the crusty bottom.



So, a pitcher of Sangria, a tapa before dinner and then the prize.






Sofrito

3  tablespoons Spanish olive oil

2  cups yellow onion, grated

1  cup red bell pepper, minced

1  tablespoon minced garlic

2  cups grated tomatoes

1  teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and heat until shimmering. Add the onions and sauté until they are transparent but not browning,

Add the bell pepper and continue to cook for 5 minutes, adding olive oil if necessary. Stir often so vegetables do not brown.

Add the minced garlic and sauté until fragrant. Pour the tomatoes into the pan and stir to combine. Add the paprika, salt and pepper. Mix well. Cook the sofrito until the liquid has evaporated and is very thick. Set aside.

Paella

1              recipe sofrito

16           large shrimp

16           clams

16           mussels

4              skinless boneless chicken thighs, cut into 2 or 3 pieces

4              Spanish chorizo sausages, cut into 2-inch pieces

3              tablespoons olive oil

2              cups Bomba rice

1/4         teaspoon saffron

3              cups hot chicken broth

1              cup peas, fresh or frozen

2              large lemons, cut into wedges

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat a 17-inch paella pan over medium high heat. Add olive oil a heat until shimmering.

Pat the chicken dry and season with kosher salt and pepper. Add the chicken to the pan and brown it well, turning the pieces with tongs and regulating the heat so they color evenly without burning. As the pieces become a rich golden brown, remove them to a plate. Add the sausage and brown evenly. Set aside.

Add the sofrito, rice, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and the saffron. Pour in the stock and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Turn the heat down so the pan is simmering 

Arrange the chicken and sausage on top of the rice. Add shrimp, mussels and clams. Scatter the peas at random over the whole pan. Cook uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes or until all the liquid has been absorbed by the rice and the grains are tender but not too soft. At no point should the paella be stirred after it goes in the oven.

When the paella is done, turn off the heat drape a kitchen towel loosely over the top. Let it rest for 5 to 8 minutes. Then garnish the paella with the lemons and serve at the table directly from the pan.

Serves 8

Friday, January 28, 2022

Ligurian Fugitive Food

Focaccia has a history that goes back to the 12th century. Apparently, the Ligurian crusaders took the bread with them to eat on the road. But another legend says that the fugitives from pirate invasions in the region made the bread while in hiding. What is known today is the bread made in Liguria is world famous and comes in a myriad of variations.


 



Quite a long time ago there was a recipe for Ligurian Focaccia in the local newspaper’s food section. I clipped it out and made it. Wow, it was full of fresh herbs, olive oil and had a crunchy bottom with a pillowy interior. Turns out it is pretty easy to make. For those intimidated by making bread this is the recipe to impress your friends and family with.

Fresh herbs really make a difference. I find it best to leave something out rather than use dry. Big chunky salt works best. Even kosher salt disappears while baking.


 

                     






Ligurian Focaccia

1 1/4 cups warm water

1/2     teaspoon sugar

2         teaspoons yeast

1         tablespoon olive oil

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1        cup whole wheat flour

2        teaspoons minced oregano

1        teaspoon minced basil

1        teaspoon minced fennel fronds

1        teaspoon minced mint

1        teaspoon minced sage

1/2    teaspoon minced rosemary

1        teaspoon kosher salt

          olive oil

          coarse salt

In the bowl of a stand mixer add warm water, sugar and yeast. Let sit for 5-10 minutes to proof. Meanwhile, combine both flours in a separate bowl.

Stir the olive oil into the mixer bowl, then add 2 cups flour, herbs and salt. With a dough hook mix until smooth. Add 1 cup flour. Mix for 8-10 minutes. Cover and let rise until doubled.

Lightly oil a quarter sheet pan (9 1/2x13-inch) with olive oil. Dump the dough onto the pan and pat the dough to fill the pan. Let raise for 30 minutes. Make dimples in the dough with wooden spoon handle or fingers. Let rise until doubled.



Preheat oven to 450°F. Generously drizzle oil on the dough and gently brush it around. Sprinkle with coarse salt, add toppings if desired (press them gently into the dough). Put pan in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. For a crispy crust, spray the oven with water three times during the first 10 minutes of baking.

Turn out onto a cooling rack. Let cool to room temperature. Cut into squares with a pizza wheel and serve. For a half sheet pan double the recipe.

 


Optional Toppings:

    1/2 cup pitted olives

    1/4 fennel bulb thinly sliced

    1/4 red onion thinly sliced

    1/2 cup cherry tomatoes

Focaccia dries out quickly. If there are leftovers wrap up and freeze.